They say Rome was never so crowded. Millions of the faithful flocked there last week to pay their last respects to their beloved pope. During his 26-year reign, John Paul II broke down barriers, becoming the first pontiff to welcome all religions; the first to travel to Cuba; the first to make sure that the poor were treated the same as the kings and queens, the presidents and prime ministers who sought an audience with him. And when he died at 84 after a long battle with Parkinson's disease, they all came to say a final farewell.