Go With the Flow
After landing, my wife and I resolve to hike out to the lava. A local overhears us discuss our plan. "Respect Pele," she says. "Bring positive energy." We decide flashlights, food, and a first- aid kit might be more practical.
As the sun falls, we return to the park. The rangers have posted warning signs and legal disclaimers--dangers on the unsupervised trek include toxic volcanic gases and unstable cliffs and steam vents that can collapse--but we just can't pass up the lure of lava.
The 3-mile hike out is hazardous in itself, as we clamber over sharp rocks. After 90 tiring minutes, we can see smoke plumes at the ocean's edge--and feel warm rocks beneath our feet. Since we see people up in front of us, we keep going. They might know something we don't.
Suddenly, the ground becomes burning hot. Red lava glows through the cracks between rocks we're standing on. Quickly retracing our steps, we perch on cool rocks a few hundred feet away and unpack our picnic dinner.
Around 9 p.m., a river of lava bursts from the ground nearby and rushes toward the ocean. The heat is tremendous, but we get close enough to see a molten waterfall coursing down the hill, lighting up the night sky--and building the earth in front of our eyes.
As we turn to leave, our sneakers stick to increasingly hot rocks. When we reach cooler ground, I trip, slicing my arm. Luckily, the wound isn't too bad. Still, before we get back in our car, we make sure to knock all of Pele's rocks out of our shoes.
LOCAL FAVE
"In Waimea, the Hawaiian Style Café serves local food, has huge portions, and it's great. I like their loco moco, a hamburger patty with gravy, onions, and a fried egg."
ROY YAMAGUCHI, chef, Roy's restaurants, Hawaii and the mainland
advertisement
