Ins & Outs: San Francisco
San Francisco has a surplus of spectacular sites and a shortage of parking spaces. Luckily, since the city is only 49 square miles, a car isn't necessary. In fact, there are lots of fun, nondriving ways to see the city.
There are dozens of walking tours. Some of the best are also the cheapest: the free, volunteer-run City Guides (www.cityguides.org). But, this being San Francisco, there are also all-comedian-run walking tours (www.foottours.com) and eat-your-way-across-the-city walking tours (www.localtastesofthecity.com or www.wokwiz.com) as well as dozens of other specialty tours.
Those who don't want to walk can take tours on Segways, those two-wheeled electric marvels (www.sfelectrictour.com), open cockpit two-seater go-carts (www.gocarsf.com), or kayaks (www.citykayak.com).
There are several bike and skate rental shops in Golden Gate Park and near the Fisherman's Wharf area, which also happen to be the flattest areas of the notoriously hilly town. Anyone planning to pedal into the heart of the city, however, had better have strong thighs. The city has 43 hills and boasts the world's steepest, curviest street: Lombard Street.
There are plenty of good guides to help you decide your S.F. itinerary. The official visitor's guide is onlyinsf.sfvisitor.org. There are also several unofficial and counterculture guides, including www.mistersf.com.
But if you're asking me: You shouldn't miss:
- a walk along the marina to the Golden Gate Bridge. If you have time, walk over to the Palace of Fine Arts and enjoy the architecture and the Exploratorium.
- a visit to the ocean to see the Pacific pound against the shore. There, you can explore the ruins of the Sutro Baths and visit the zoo. If you're feeling rich, dine at the Cliff House. I prefer breakfast at Louie's. The view's just as good. And the sourdough pancakes will power you all day.
- a bike ride through Golden Gate Park, especially on Sundays, when cars are banned. If you get up early on the weekends, you can join the free tai chi class near the duck pond.
- a walk through North Beach. There you can sample great Italian food and browse through books at Lawrence Ferlinghetti's City Lights bookstore, one of the last remaining outposts of the beat generation.
- and, of course, a ride on a cable car and a stroll through Chinatown.