Ins & Outs: Isle au Haut
If you are only spending the day, the last evening-boat leaves Duck Harbor at 5:45 p.m. The late boats leave the village landing at 4:30 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. Remember that it will take you at least two hours to hike from the southern end of the island to the village (more if the blueberries distract you). Plan accordingly.
If you are ending your day at the town landing and need a cold drink, it is worth spinning by the village store. It is a five-minute walk north of the village landing. As you might expect on an isolated island, the grocery is a bit pricey: Gas costs $3.20 a gallon! (Cars can only get to Isle au Haut by barge, and once they are there, they stay. As a result, there are some wonderful old vehicles on Isle au Haut miraculously still running. Keep a look out for the Studebaker pickup truck.) You can also buy a postcard at the grocery and send it out from one of the nation's smallest post offices, just to the south of the town landing.
If you have made a reservation, you can spend the night on Isle au Haut either in a tent or at an inn.
There are five camping sites that in the height of the summer can be reserved for three days at a time for a cost of $25. For a reservation form go to nps.gov/acad/pdf/iahreserve.pdf. The official deadline for reserving a spot is April 1, and in the summer season the sites get snatched up fast—so there is little likelihood of getting a spot this summer. But if the weather looks threatening, there is a chance that someone might cancel. Check with the rangers.
If sleeping in a lean-to is not your style, try the two inns. I have stayed at the newer place, the Inn at Isle au Haut, run by Diana Santospago. The inn (innatisleauhaut.com) is on the east side of the island, and the rooms have beautiful views of York Island. Rooms start at $250 ($268 with tax), including a full breakfast, picnic lunch, and scrumptious four-course dinner. On the western side of the island is the Keeper's House (keepershouse.com). A room and three meals at the Keeper's House starts at $310 ($378 with tax and a 15 percent service charge). Space is limited and in demand, but as of late June, there were still some dates available at both inns during July and August.
If you do stay the night at Isle au Haut, and the sky is clear, make sure you look up. Miles from the mainland, the view of the stars is spectacular.
If you want to learn more about Isle au Haut, check out isleauhaut.net. Linda Greenlaw's book The Lobster Chronicles: Life on a Very Small Island wittily describes the island culture and characters. The tastes of the island are on display in her new cookbook, Recipes from a Very Small Island. Since Greenlaw loves showing folks around Isle au Haut, she is mulling starting a charter-tour business on the side, so keep an eye on her website, fishingwithlinda.net. -Julian E. Barnes
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