Baghdad's Baptizers
Revering John the Baptist, these Iraqis sustain an ancient religion
BAGHDAD--Under the unblinking eye of the searing Iraqi sun, several hundred people gather on the banks of the historic Tigris River, clad in rustic white tunics secured by simple rope. One by one, they lower themselves up to their chests in the murky water. A sheik with a long, white beard chants quietly, slowly immersing worshipers until their heads are almost completely submerged. He scoops some river water into each person's mouth before uttering a final blessing. After everyone has been rebaptized, the full-day cleansing ritual is capped off by a ceremonial feast.
This is the annual Golden Day of Baptism for the little-known sect of Sabaean Mandeans, an ancient religion based in Iraq. Save for the sight of the power station belching thick, black smoke on the opposite riverbank, the ritual is essentially the same one that Mandeans have practiced for centuries. These worshipers make up a portion of the dwindling numbers of Sabaean Mandeans, who are slowly emerging from the oppressive yoke of Saddam Hussein's regime. Officially, they were allowed to practice their religion freely. "He would use us for propaganda--to show he was being tolerant," says Naseeb Khatab, general secretary of the Mandeans' central council.
Low profile. But in many subtle ways, Saddam's regime made their lives difficult. Over the years, Saddam confiscated several temples and buildings belonging to the group. Their most important temple along the Tigris was seized to build the power plant, forcing the religion's leaders to rent space across the river each year for their annual mass baptism. Many Mandeans even chose to register with the government as Muslims to avoid troubles, which explains why there is no reliable estimate of the sect's size. "We are a very, very, very weak tribe in Iraq," says Sattar Radi, who, like most Mandeans, works as a goldsmith. "We have to practice our religion quietly in Iraq."
The religion's history dates from sometime in the first three centuries A.D., maybe earlier. Its tenets and practices reflect a melding of religious influences: ancient Gnostic, Jewish, and Christian, perhaps reflecting an exodus of early adherents from Palestine to Mesopotamia. Today, Mandean leaders estimate that there are as few as 10,000 of their followers remaining in Iraq, with small groups in other countries around the world.
But for this, Saddam is less to blame than the Mandean religion itself. Mandeans are only allowed to marry other Mandeans in order to preserve what they believe are pure bloodlines going back at least to the days of John the Baptist. Anyone who marries a Christian or a Muslim must leave the Mandeans. "Since 2,000 years ago, nobody has been able to enter our religion," says Sheik Sattar Jabbar Hilu, the highest-ranking Mandean leader.
With Saddam gone, there is new hope that the Mandean faith can enjoy a modest renaissance. "I think our religion will grow," says Sheik Sattar. "Health will be better, and people can travel and marry." Church leaders are planning to embark on a full census of their followers, and they are also considering a worldwide conference to bring together their members for the first time.
One main challenge will simply be educating other Iraqis about the Mandean faith. Many Iraqis remain suspicious of Mandeans. In past years, some Iraqis have pelted Mandeans with stones from a nearby highway overpass during the Golden Day of Baptism celebrations, which mark the anniversary of John the Baptist's baptism of Jesus. "People say we are praying to the stars or the angels or that we have no God," says Sheik Sattar. "We are praying to God--nothing more."
In fact, Mandeans are neither Christian nor Muslim nor Jewish, but their faith bears some similarities to each. Their holy book, the Ginza Raba, includes some of the same books as the Old Testament, including the book of Genesis, and they look to Adam as their first messenger. They regard Jesus as a false messiah. "Christianity was changed to make it more simple," says Sheik Majid Abdullah, another top church leader. "We stayed like the roots on the trees."
As in Christianity, Sunday is their holy day. But some of the Mandeans' practices are more akin to those of Judaism. Mandeans can eat only fish with scales, for example, and they must also perform ritual fasting 36 different days of the year. As in Islam, divorce and drinking alcohol are forbidden. In Iraq, Mandeans have adopted many Muslim cultural practices to better blend in, even adopting Arabic names instead of using their religiously rooted names in the ancient Mandean language.
Source of life. With John the Baptist as the Mandeans' most important teacher, baptism is, unsurprisingly, their most important rite. (The name Sabaean Mandean means one who is baptized and has knowledge of God.) Religious leaders must wash themselves three times in water to purify the body and soul before performing any religious rites. Weddings are also conducted almost entirely submerged in water. And followers must participate in several baptisms a year, usually in running water, which reflects their belief that living water is the source of life.
When they pray, Mandeans face north, using the North Star to orient themselves. This way, they believe they are facing God and the forces of light. Many of their beliefs center on purity, both in spirit and body. Religious leaders must marry only virgins and must be free from any kind of disease. Before a leader assumes the church's top position, other leaders trace his family history back seven generations to ensure his history is pure.
For the Mandeans in Baghdad today, life is still full of uncertainty. The annual Golden Day of Baptism celebration usually draws three times the number of people as this year, but gas shortages and security fears kept many away. And there are new concerns. Many are unsure whether Iraq's new government will carve out a place for them. "We are now getting afraid because maybe Islamic fanatics will take power," says Sheik Majid. "Maybe they will make us close this temple." Even after some two millenniums, their faith is carried on a day at a time.
SABAEAN MANDEANS
WHO: Adherents born into this little-known Middle Eastern religion.
NUMBERS: At least 10,000 in Iraq; unknown numbers in Iran and elsewhere.
PRACTICES: Jewish, pre-Christian, Christian, and Gnostic influences.
This story appears in the June 9, 2003 print edition of U.S. News & World Report.