Baghdad's Baptizers
Revering John the Baptist, these Iraqis sustain an ancient religion
BAGHDAD--Under the unblinking eye of the searing Iraqi sun, several hundred people gather on the banks of the historic Tigris River, clad in rustic white tunics secured by simple rope. One by one, they lower themselves up to their chests in the murky water. A sheik with a long, white beard chants quietly, slowly immersing worshipers until their heads are almost completely submerged. He scoops some river water into each person's mouth before uttering a final blessing. After everyone has been rebaptized, the full-day cleansing ritual is capped off by a ceremonial feast.
This is the annual Golden Day of Baptism for the little-known sect of Sabaean Mandeans, an ancient religion based in Iraq. Save for the sight of the power station belching thick, black smoke on the opposite riverbank, the ritual is essentially the same one that Mandeans have practiced for centuries. These worshipers make up a portion of the dwindling numbers of Sabaean Mandeans, who are slowly emerging from the oppressive yoke of Saddam Hussein's regime. Officially, they were allowed to practice their religion freely. "He would use us for propaganda--to show he was being tolerant," says Naseeb Khatab, general secretary of the Mandeans' central council.
Low profile. But in many subtle ways, Saddam's regime made their lives difficult. Over the years, Saddam confiscated several temples and buildings belonging to the group. Their most important temple along the Tigris was seized to build the power plant, forcing the religion's leaders to rent space across the river each year for their annual mass baptism. Many Mandeans even chose to register with the government as Muslims to avoid troubles, which explains why there is no reliable estimate of the sect's size. "We are a very, very, very weak tribe in Iraq," says Sattar Radi, who, like most Mandeans, works as a goldsmith. "We have to practice our religion quietly in Iraq."
The religion's history dates from sometime in the first three centuries A.D., maybe earlier. Its tenets and practices reflect a melding of religious influences: ancient Gnostic, Jewish, and Christian, perhaps reflecting an exodus of early adherents from Palestine to Mesopotamia. Today, Mandean leaders estimate that there are as few as 10,000 of their followers remaining in Iraq, with small groups in other countries around the world.
But for this, Saddam is less to blame than the Mandean religion itself. Mandeans are only allowed to marry other Mandeans in order to preserve what they believe are pure bloodlines going back at least to the days of John the Baptist. Anyone who marries a Christian or a Muslim must leave the Mandeans. "Since 2,000 years ago, nobody has been able to enter our religion," says Sheik Sattar Jabbar Hilu, the highest-ranking Mandean leader.
With Saddam gone, there is new hope that the Mandean faith can enjoy a modest renaissance. "I think our religion will grow," says Sheik Sattar. "Health will be better, and people can travel and marry." Church leaders are planning to embark on a full census of their followers, and they are also considering a worldwide conference to bring together their members for the first time.
advertisement
