Many of her looks were black, which made the flashes of cobalt blue, geranium red and citron yellow more impactful. She used a painter's brush-stroke print on camisole slips and chiffon gowns to make another visual statement, and delicate fabric petals decorated the back of slim-cut sheaths.
"My inspiration was sort of artsy, but also quite clean and a lot of collaging and athleticism ... athletic details to the very central, romantic dresses. It's very much based on sport and the body and movement," she said.
Model Chrissy Teigen and fiance John Legend were in the front row. Both said they were fans of Wang.
"I think I have pretty good taste," Legend said. "I don't like obsess over it, but I care how I look, so and I care how she looks, too," he said of Teigen. "She has great style."
The design duo turned out pearls, beads and tweeds. After all, you need a lot of options if you're a Jazz Age heiress who fantasizes jumping off the yacht — anchored in the French Riviera — and turning into a beautiful mermaid in the moonlight.
That's the elaborate scenario Mark Badgley and James Mischka dreamed up for their spring collection muse. It was a lot of moving parts, and that's how they wanted it, literally and figuratively. It's what keeps things interesting, they said.
"We wanted a lot of movement," Mischka said.
The crowd certainly got that when models came out wearing wide-leg pleated palazzo pants (some with belly-baring tops), a slinky draped red gown and an all-over beaded skirt with metallic fringe.
A seafoam-green gown with slivers of silver floated on the runway, seemingly light as the air — or the sea.
Burch was inspired by the French Riviera in the '60s, where women would wear cute trapeze dresses to show off their legs and could turn a swim shirt and mini into an outfit worthy of a prime spot at a seaside cafe.
When the sun goes down, there were halter dresses to show off their tans on their shoulders, and other cocktail looks with jeweled collars and cuffs to add sparkle. Burch took the scarves these ladies surely would have had around their necks and turned them into a button-down shirt and a cotton sundress.
She paired a lattice cutout leather jacket with a lattice lace skirt. A block-print anorak — collar up — was worn with a matching-print dress.
"I love the easy elegance of the movie 'La Piscine' and Romy Schneider's character," she said.
Their fall collection was inspired by Northern California, where they grew up, and so the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte decided that for spring, they needed to head south — to Los Angeles, where they live now.
"I always knew it would be a two-part story," said Laura Mulleavy, who designs with her sister, Kate. "We had to do LA next, to create a balance."
For those who have followed the Mulleavys, this collection was a far cry from the ethereal, soft clothes they created, for example, two years ago when their inspiration was Vincent Van Gogh. The current collection was heavy on urban edge, attitude and a strong street vibe.
Many of the ensembles were surprisingly flashy, such as beaded bra tops shimmering with Swarovski crystal elements. One of these came in leopard, adding to the nightclub effect. Sometimes these tops were paired with much more toned-down accompaniments — for example, a nice tweed jacket.
There was lots and lots of fringe: On faux leather skirts, for example, and on silk shorts — or, for a fancier look, on a white silk jacquard and silk satin dress. Speaking of shorts, they were often so short, it sometimes looked like the models had nothing on underneath their jackets.
The calendar hasn't even flipped to fall yet, but so many collections at New York Fashion Week are already trained on next summer's vacation — J. Crew included.