"I'm a modernist at heart," Lemaire said following the show, hosted next to Paris' Tuileries gardens.
This idea was worked into the collection's best looks with a feel of famed Dutch painter Piet Mondrian — who used geometric shapes and blocks of colors that could be seen in several of the final looks.
Printed geometric floaty silk blouses and slightly jarring assorted pants made bold statements.
They also featured the slight play on masculine styles that Lemaire likes to toy with periodically: A cotton wool cravate appeared on most of the looks as a man's tie, tucked into a hoop.
The result was pure luxury, air delivered as only Hermes can.
Kenzo headed back to the Southeast Asian jungle Sunday in a vibrant, fun collection that picked up their last menswear theme: A rainforest trek.
After just one year at the helm, the hard work of designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim has paid off: They've managed to re-stamp the brand with a cool, populist edge.
But they're serious about their work in other ways too: Fashion insiders had to live the catwalk theme — literally — by trekking to the far-flung venue, the Maison de Judo, on the Paris city limits.
In bold — sometimes purposefully garish — orange vermilions and greens, the collection threw up some great wide pants and boxy-shaped jackets as well as a lot of safari-style street wear.
Though some of the jungle printed ensembles looked overly busy — a beautiful camouflage print made up for it with images of flowers that looked like leopard.
But there was art in the detail too, with the designers showing a flair for tailoring in great utilitarian features.
Thomas Adamson can be followed at http:/ /Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP
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