That graceful insect inspired his Spring 2013 collection, in which he embellished both daywear and evening gowns alike with intricate cutouts, filigree-inspired prints, appliques and embroidery.
For daytime, a sleeveless white top had "drapes," an almost winglike effect. It was paired with a steel-colored pencil skirt. An onyx leather dress was enhanced by intricate laser cutouts. A sea green and sand-colored suede dress with silk inserts was one of the most wearable daytime looks.
Some of the embellished gowns seemed a bit too busy. But a chartreuse and sand organza gown with a hand-pleated skirt made a wonderfully striking impression: the effect was that of a swirling breeze enveloping the model as she glided down the runway.
Vivienne Tam took on the Five Elements of Chinese cosmology in an East-meets-West spring collection of three-color geometric applique and hexagonal cut work that moved with her models.
Touches of black patent shined like metallic silver and gold printed on cotton denim for tops and wide-leg cropped pants. A trench was also done in the bright silver.
A geometric design of white, jade green and black stole the show, in loose cropped pants, a short organza column dress and another looser and waisted dress with black straps and matching cutouts at the chest.
The yang? Reverse pleats at the hip in a long column dress. Nobody but the very thin, and hipless, can wear those.
From the triangular cleavage cutouts to the plunging V-necklines, Narciso Rodriguez made his point with pointed shapes.
"It's a very graphic collection. It's kind of a signature at this point after so many years: the splicing, the color, especially black and white," said Rodriguez before his show on Tuesday.
But while the designer known for modern and architectural silhouettes showed a handful of black and white looks, color dominated the minimalist collection with blood-orange sheath dresses, a loose-fitting fuchsia blazer and silky tops with intricate, emerald embroidery.
The easy-breezy collection ended with a stream of silky soft, paper thin, slip dresses colorblocked with geometric shades of pink.
British restraint? Not here.
The Jenny Packham catwalk was a parade of one glitzy, glamorous look after another, and she wasn't one to shy away from a single — or thousands of — beads, sequins and sparkles.
Packham wouldn't be doing justice to 1960s Las Vegas without them, right?
London-based Packham said in her notes that she took a long look at Lauren Bacall, Shirley MacLaine and Angie Dickinson, aka "The Rat Pack Mascots," as inspiration. If these muses were to swing open the closet doors in spring 2013, they would find Packham's checkerboard-beaded gown, a swinging trapeze-beaded mini and the ultimate hostess dress, an orange T-shirt gown with embellished long-sleeve cuffs.
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
Marc Jacobs threw a hipster picnic with a mashup of neon checks, plaids and stripes — large, small, wide, narrow — loaded into outfits as many as five at a time for his more moderately priced Marc by Marc Jacobs line.
Other looks for men and women were less busy. There was an edgy chic to a roomy ladies' button coat in off-white with embroidered silver dots, and another in solid bright pink with large pockets, vents and heather gray sleeves with matching pink trim at the cuffs.
Another button coat was more fitted, in a fuchsia pattern of smaller dots against dark blue.
But the line's spring show shouted bold, fun prints in bright orange, pink, purple and red.
J. Crew is sending its customer packing. The retailer presented a collection of upcoming styles on Tuesday that picked up influences from vacation spots around the world.
It was only natural to tap into the retailer's growing international presence, explained Tom Mora, women's vice president of design, in a pre-show interview. "I always have her (the J. Crew customer) in my head, and she travels with me. I'm mostly taking her to warm places."