He included some looks he hopes will land on red carpets this year: a four-ply silk crepe illusion gown in ruby and another of the same style in a lively moss.
Valvo also went full-on fur in an ombre mink patchwork coat in a light camel with a darker back and in wide mink stoles wrapped around the necks of models. He used shaggy black goat fur on the sleeves of a jacket and feathered fox in oatmeal for a sumptuous vest.
A belted ivory coat had simple lines, a similar cut in camel and a cashmere cocktail dress in moss with straight, tight sleeves just above the elbow.
Thakoon Panichgul, a favorite of first lady Michelle Obama, designed a line heavy with bright neon colors and rich materials. Panichgul mixed the refined, like a black satin sleeved dress, with the modern — a striking red and orange print he calls "neon beam."
Red leather, red lipstick and shiny red high heels were also prominent. He paired a fuchsia fur knit sweater with a raspberry patent skirt that had a paper bag waist. He ruched red leather at the biceps and waist for a dress and used a hearts-and-lips print for a jacquard bomber jacket.
The collection was filled with outerwear inspired dresses, from a black satin tuxedo jacket dress to a crinkled deep blue trench coat dress.
Derek Lam offered lovely chunky but sleeveless sweaters on a cold day, one black, one white, each paired with a long silk georgette evening skirt of the same color.
Lam also had an ivory shearling and a series of nice pea coats, in white or navy wool, or, even warmer, in shearling, plus a black-and-white tweed jacquard coat, paired with black lambskin trousers.
Other practical yet pretty and luxurious looks from Lam included shoes — a gold patent leather oxford and a black lizard oxford with a gold toe. In prints, he favored both a floral satin — in a jacket, a T-shirt, and a coat — and a paisley jacquard, in a black-and-white dress or T-shirt, or a gold-and-black skirt.
Shiny leather also played a prominent role, not only in trousers, but also in dresses — such as a white lambskin dress paired with a black lambskin turtleneck, or a wine-colored cap sleeve lambskin dress, also paired with its own turtle.
Associated Press writers Leanne Italie, Jocelyn Noveck and Caryn Rousseau contributed to this report.
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